攝影｜曝光：Ｍ、Ｓ、Ａ、Ｐ模式哪一種最好用、最厲害？

沒有哪一種最好用、最厲害，四種都是同樣厲害都是很好用。因為四種模式其實就是一種模式而已。

快門、光圈、ISO，這三個數值是學攝影都一定要了解。

現代相機功能上，又把曝光模式區分Ｍ、Ｓ、Ａ、Ｐ模式，分別為手動、快門先決、光圈先決、自動。

先說結論：沒有哪一種最好用、最厲害，四種都是同樣厲害都是很好用。因為四種模式其實就是一種模式而已。

Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO are three values that every photography student must understand. In modern camera functions, the exposure modes are further classified as M, S, A, and P, which stand for Manual, Shutter Priority, Aperture Priority, and Automatic, respectively.

All four modes are equally powerful and useful. They are essentially the same.

我說這種話應該會讓新手一頭霧水，老鳥翻白眼吧。四種都一樣那為什麼要分成四種，一種就直接幹到底不就好了，這樣跟脫褲子放屁有什麼區別？恩，還真有區別。

我說一下我的理由，不然我怕我走出去會被蓋布袋痛毆。

四種模式我會說都是同一種，是因為它最後得到的數值都是一樣。

I think saying this kind of thing would probably confuse beginners and make experienced people roll their eyes. Why divide it into four types if they are all the same? It would be better to just do one type thoroughly. It’s like pulling down your pants and farting — what’s the difference? Well, there is actually a difference.

I will briefly explain my reasons, otherwise I am afraid I will be brutally assaulted with a burlap bag when I go out. The reason I say all four modes are the same is because they all yield the same final value.

怎麼可能？用同樣的光圈快門拍同樣的光線下物體，數值還是有差異性啊。我知道很多人會有這樣的回答。會這樣回答的人是不是忘記還有一個控制選項：曝光補償，也就是EV值的加減。

拿我手上SonyA9相機來說，它是位於右上角的圓型轉盤，從+3到-3，每差距一等分劃分成三小等分。對我來說，單手單姆指要轉動有點難度，通常我會需要使用到左手拿好相機，用右手手指去調節我要的刻度，然後一邊觀察相機後液晶螢幕顯示的畫面亮度是不是我要的。

看我的描述應該就知道這樣的操作真的有點麻煩，會拖慢拍攝速度，在某些拍攝題材上是非常不適用這樣的方式。

Impossible? Taking a photo of an object under the same lighting conditions with the same aperture and shutter speed can still result in differences in the values. I know many people would have this kind of response. The reason they answer like this might be because they forget about another control option: exposure compensation, which is the adjustment of EV (exposure value).

Speaking of my Sony A9 camera, it has a circular dial located in the top right corner, ranging from +3 to -3, divided into three smaller divisions for each equal interval.

For me, it is a bit challenging to rotate the single-handed thumb dial. Usually, I need to use my left hand to hold the camera steady and adjust the desired settings with my right hand. Meanwhile, I also need to observe the brightness of the image displayed on the camera’s LCD screen.

You can tell from my description that this operation is quite troublesome, it slows down the shooting speed, and is not suitable for certain shooting subjects.

說回數值都一樣的話題，如果不相信我說的話，可以拿起自己可以調整曝光模式功能的相機，請不要拿起手機跟我說根本就沒辦法哦，我會請你。。。花錢去買一台。

然後，為了方便數值控制跟觀察畫面，請先拿到光源充足的地方。接著，依序Ｍ、Ｓ、Ａ、Ｐ模式去做拍攝，如果你從Ｍ模式拍完，轉變成其他模式的時候，你會發現另一個數值會開始變動，這時候你只需要調整EV值就可以得到跟你用Ｍ模式同樣的數值。（實驗的同時請把ISO數值也固定不動）

Speaking of topics with the same values, if you don’t believe what I’m saying, you can pick up your camera that has adjustable exposure mode function, please don’t grab your phone and tell me it’s impossible, I will ask you… to spend money to buy one.

Then, please go to a well-lit area for convenient control of values and observing the screen.

Next, continue shooting in the order of M, S, A, P modes. When you switch from M mode and switch to another mode, you will notice that another value starts to change. At this point, you just need to adjust the EV value to obtain the same value as when using M mode.

（At the same time, please keep the ISO value fixed during the experiment.）

你可能會納悶為什麼要用Ｍ模式當基準？沒有什麼特殊原因，只是要拿一個當基準而已，拿哪一個模式當基準都是一樣的。你也可以把Ｓ模式當成基準去測試Ｍ、Ａ、Ｐ模式，都是同樣的方式，除了Ｍ模式以外，其他曝光模式都需要再使用到EV值的變動。

會有這樣的結論是因為最後相機都是要你在同樣光源角度、物體、拍攝角度、ISO得到一樣的曝光。最直觀的方式就是觀察照片的直方圖，如果你相機可以在拍攝的同時打開直方圖顯示，你就會發現只要把光圈、快門、ISO調整到固定數值，得到的直方圖就會是一樣。

You may wonder why M mode is used as the reference. There is no special reason, just choosing one mode as the benchmark. It doesn’t matter which mode is chosen as the benchmark.

You can also use the S mode as a baseline to test the M, A, and P modes, using the same method except for the M mode, where exposure value adjustment is additionally required.

The conclusion is based on the fact that in the end, the camera requires you to achieve the same exposure by having the same light source angle, subject, shooting angle, and ISO.

The most intuitive way is to observe the histogram of a photo. If your camera allows you to display the histogram while taking a shot, you will find that as long as you set the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to the same values, the resulting histogram will be the same.

有發現我最後說什麼嗎？把光圈、快門、ISO固定之後，得到的曝光都會是一樣。也就是說再多的模式，都是為了得到在同一個光圈、快門、ISO下的曝光。

每個模式就是把其中一個數值當變量，再把其他的數值當固定值，而EV值就當作一個可微調的變量。可以想像成一個等號的右邊是結果，而結果的數值是固定數值。左邊是一串公式，光圈、快門、ISO就是左邊公式的變數，而曝光模式則是左邊變數的一個框架，框架裡的變數怎麼變化，最後都還是會是跟右邊的結果數值相同。

After fixing the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, the exposure will be the same. In other words, all the different modes are just for achieving the same exposure at the same aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.

Each pattern takes one of the values as a variable and fixes the other values, while the EV value is treated as an adjustable variable.

One can imagine it as an equation, where the right side is the result with a fixed value. The left side is a string of formulas, and aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are the variables of the left side formulas, while exposure mode is the framework of the left side variables. However the variables in the framework change, in the end, they will always be the same as the result value on the right side.

為什麼要分這麼多種模式？因為每一種都有它方便之處。

試想，你要一次操作兩種、三種數值變化簡單，還是一次一種數值變化簡單？甚至不用操作，交給相機決定就好，簡直懶人福音，只要有手指可以按快門就好，多棒的一件事。

其實就是如佛法所說，用一個『方便』之門讓你進入『相機』的世界。

太困難的操作方法會讓人卻步，越簡單越好這件事，你知道我知道相機廠商也知道。

科技總是來自人性，這句話更是說明了這件事。

Why do we need so many different modes? Because each one has its own convenience.

Imagine, is it easier to handle two or three types of value changes at once, or one type at a time? Or even better, let the camera decide without any effort on your part. It’s truly a lazy person’s dream come true – as long as you have a finger to press the shutter, how wonderful is that.

In fact, it is as the Buddha said, using a “skillful means” to enter the world of “camera”.

Difficult operating methods can discourage people, so the simpler, the better. You know it, I know it, camera manufacturers know it. Technology always originates from human nature, and this phrase further illustrates this.

『有沒有遇過在一個黑夜，你打開相機，使用光圈先決Ａ模式，然後盯著相機螢幕的時候，感覺有點光線不足，畫面太黑太暗。依照網路上的教學，轉動曝光補償旋鈕，都已經轉到最高數值+3，還是覺得不太夠明亮，只好把ISO數值調高，才得到一個自己能接受亮度的畫面。』

『有沒有遇過在一個風和日麗大太陽的白天，你打開相機，使用快門先決Ｓ模式，然後盯著相機螢幕的時候，感覺畫面一片白皙，光線太亮了。依照網路上的教學，轉動曝光補償旋鈕，都已經轉到最小數值-3，還是覺得畫面太過度明亮，只好把ISO數值調低，才得到一個自己能接受亮度的畫面。』

（以上案例，快門先決模式比較不會像光圈先決模式，因為快門大概超過1/2400的時候，應該都可以在大太陽底下拍到亮度相對能接受的畫面）

『Have you ever experienced opening the camera in a dark night, using the aperture priority mode, and then staring at the camera screen, feeling a lack of light and the image being too dark?According to online tutorials, I turned the exposure compensation dial to the highest value of +3, but still felt it wasn’t bright enough, so I had to increase the ISO value to achieve a desired brightness on the image.』

『Have you ever experienced opening the camera on a sunny day, using the shutter priority mode, and staring at the camera screen, only to find that the image appears overexposed, with the sunlight being too bright?According to online tutorials, I have already turned the exposure compensation dial to the minimum value of -3, but the image still appears excessively bright. Therefore, I had to reduce the ISO value in order to achieve a brightness level that I find acceptable.』

（In the above cases, the shutter priority mode is less likely to be like the aperture priority mode, because when the shutter speed is approximately higher than 1/2400, it should still be possible to capture a relatively acceptable image in bright sunlight.）

說到這，有沒有覺得其實Ｓ、Ａ模式才是專家模式，一次要控制三種（Ｘ模式下的另一個變數、EV值、ISO值），Ｍ模式反而只需要注意兩種就好，根本才是新手模式吧。

為什麼網路大多在說Ｍ模式才厲害，Ｍ模式才是專家模式？因為Ｓ、Ａ模式沒人會注意到EV值的使用，新手是如此，老手更是如此。

EV值不重要嗎？

當你在使用Ｓ、Ａ模式的時候會去改變EV值嗎？忘了改變之後得到的畫面，你覺得就不是你想要的畫面嗎？

不會改變。忘記也沒差。

因為它的影響沒有大到會影響相對數值或者拍攝過程，所以還是會專注在Ｓ模式下的快門數值、Ａ模式下的光圈數值，Ｐ模式就更不用說，根本就不會管EV值。

這樣的情形是發生在我身上，你也有過這樣的感覺嗎？我認為大部分的人也都是如此。

Ｓ、Ａ模式只要關心一個數值或者ISO值，Ｐ模式甚至只要關心ISO值就好，只需要一到兩個數值的管理就可以拍攝，這也是網路上一片教育新手從Ｓ、Ａ模式開始學習拍攝的原因。

Speaking of this, don’t you think that S and A modes are actually the expert modes? In those modes, you have to control three variables (the other variable in X mode, EV value, ISO value), whereas M mode only requires attention to two variables. It’s actually the beginner mode.

Why is most of the internet saying that M mode is powerful and the expert mode? Because nobody pays attention to the use of EV values in S and A modes, especially not beginners or experienced players.

Are EV values not important?

Do you change the EV values when using S, A modes? If you forget to change them, do you feel like you are not getting the desired image?

It won’t change. Forgetting also doesn’t matter. Because its impact is not significant enough to affect the relative values or the shooting process, so we will still focus on the shutter value in S mode, aperture value in A mode, and especially in P mode, we won’t even bother with the EV value.

This situation happened to me, have you also had this feeling? I believe most people have experienced it too.

S and A modes only require attention to one value or ISO, and even P mode only requires concern with ISO. It only requires managing one to two values for photography, which is why beginners often start learning photography from S and A modes.

在剛開始學習拍照的時候，也是對於這幾種模式感到很困惑。總是不知道什麼情形要用哪種模式，不知道要先學哪種模式，不知道要在什麼情境下用什麼模式拍攝，總之就是看到四種模式就覺得好像相機是一門好高深莫測的學問，連操作都這麼複雜。網路上所說的內容也都是把每一種模式合適的場景說清楚說明白，每一種模式的好處是什麼，把一個簡單的問題複雜化，就讓一個完全不懂的新手覺得這是一門好難懂卻又好像很厲害的學問。

I was also confused about these modes when I first started learning photography.

I always don’t know which mode to use in different situations, I don’t know which mode to learn first, and I don’t know which mode to use for what context. In short, when I see the four modes, it seems like photography is a complex and mysterious art, even the operation is so complicated.

The content discussed on the internet also clearly explains the appropriate scenarios for each pattern and their benefits. It makes a simple question complex, making a complete novice feel that it is a difficult yet impressive subject.

讓我們把問題簡單化吧。就使用Ｍ模式。

先說幾個前提，這樣你才能更理解我說的Ｍ模式就是最簡單化的模式。

第一：你要固定你的拍攝方式，有就是你的拍攝數值要固定。

我舉我自己而言，我拍攝通常都是把光圈固定在1.8 – 2.8左右，因為我都是拿大光圈鏡頭。除非是拍兩人以上的合照，或者今天我街拍想要盲拍，用小光圈可以確保盲拍得焦平面不會差太多，不然我都是光圈最大或者縮小1/3。

第二：把其他要改變的數值設快捷鍵。

就是把光圈、快門、ISO的數值變動不用再進去相機菜單裡做變更，包括轉動方向左右順序是代表變大變小都要設定好。

第三：要背幾組常用的相對數值。

其實就是大太陽的時候，沒有任何遮擋物的光線下和陰影下的數值，傍晚或者晚上的相對數值。這沒有一定是什麼數值組合，就是你自己在一個很平常的白天或晚上，你自己覺得這個組合應該很常用就把它背下來。例如：我自己就會記大太陽下，ISO 100，光圈2.0，快門1/2000，陰影下光圈不變，ISO 400，快門 1/640。大概就是白天兩組，陰天一組，晚上一組。

突然想到有鏡頭是變焦鏡頭，光圈會隨焦段連動，這種會比較困難一點。因為你要記得數值會比我用大光圈定焦鏡頭多，不過那也是因為你同時間使用焦段會多一些，要是我同時間用兩顆不同焦段的定焦鏡頭也差不多意思，基本變量不會太大。

Let’s simplify the problem. Just use the M mode.

Let me start with a few premises so that you can better understand what I mean by ‘M mode’ is the simplest mode.

First: You need to fix your shooting style, that is, your shooting values need to be fixed.

For me personally, I usually shoot with the aperture fixed at around 1.8 – 2.8 because I use wide aperture lenses.Unless taking a group photo or if I want to do some street photography without being noticed, using a small aperture ensures that the focus plane of my blind shots won’t differ too much. Otherwise, I usually use the largest aperture or reduce it by 1/3.

Second: Set shortcuts for other values to be changed.

Just change the values of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO without having to go into the camera menu, and make sure to set the direction of rotation for increasing or decreasing correctly.

Third: Memorize several sets of commonly used relative values.

Actually, it refers to the value under direct sunlight with no obstructions and the relative value in shade or during the evening or night.There is no specific numerical combination. Just memorize the combination that you think is commonly used during a normal day or night.

For example, I will remember: under the bright sun, ISO 100, aperture 2.0, shutter speed 1/2000; under shade, aperture remains the same, ISO 400, shutter speed 1/640. There are approximately two settings for daytime, one setting for overcast days, and one setting for nighttime.

Suddenly realized that there are zoom lenses where the aperture moves along with the focal length, which can be a bit more challenging.

Because you have to remember that the numbers will be larger when using a wide aperture prime lens compared to me. However, that’s also because you have more focal lengths available at the same time. If I were to simultaneously use two different focal length prime lenses, the basic variables wouldn’t differ too much.

我拍攝的方式就是把光圈固定，隨著我要拍攝的場景明亮度不同，隨時去調整我的快門和ISO，這樣有沒有像光圈先決的模式？當然你也可以把快門固定，隨著拍攝場景不同去改變你的光圈和ISO，這樣是不是又變成快門先決模式！本來你要一次改三個數值，透過一些拍攝習慣的固定，把Ｍ模式變成Ｓ、Ａ模式，也不用管EV值，直接把所有模式揉成一團撒尿牛丸，簡單高效率。

我認為不用去探討哪一種模式適合什麼場景，你只要了解光圈、快門、ISO代表的意義，調整的意義，你就可以跳脫模式的框架，脫離機器給你的控制，讓你真正的得到你想要的拍攝自由。

恩，最後一句話有沒有似曾相似，有沒有在網路上看到所謂大師都是這樣說的，我只想說最後一句話就是狗屁，對新手來說就是毫無意義的話（自己打自己臉）。

My method of shooting is to fix the aperture and adjust the shutter speed and ISO according to the brightness of the scene I want to capture. Does this resemble aperture priority mode?

Of course, you can also lock the shutter speed and adjust your aperture and ISO as the shooting scene changes, which then becomes shutter priority mode!

Originally, you were supposed to change three values at once, but by establishing some fixed shooting habits, M mode can be transformed into S, A mode without worrying about EV values. Just mix all the modes together and make it simple and efficient.

I think there’s no need to discuss which mode suits which scenario. As long as you understand the meaning and adjustments of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO, you can break free from the constraints of modes, escape the control imposed by the camera, and truly achieve the photographic freedom you desire.

Yeah, does the last sentence sound familiar? Have you seen so-called masters on the internet all say the same thing? I just want to say that the last sentence is bullshit, it’s meaningless for beginners (I’m just slapping myself in the face).

每個人都有經歷過完全不懂的階段，這沒有關係。

每個人都有經歷過資訊太多無法消化的階段，這沒有關係。

沒有人爬到山頂不用經過從山下到山腰再到山頂的階段，只要你用心，所經歷過的過程都是會成為最後結果的養分。

都去了解相機的每一種模式，都去看網路上的教學，都去看每一個人所說的相關內容，看得越多，自然就會越清楚什麼是相對正確，就會知道什麼是你問題的答案。中間所花費的時間、精力都是可貴的，也會在這過程得到你意想不到的驚喜，然後再上網來發表長篇大論呼攏其他人。。。

最後一句是開玩笑，請不要當真。

如果你是剛接觸攝影的新手，就多查證、多看、多實驗、多疑問。除了牽涉到光學的公式以外，攝影沒有『絕對』正確的事，請在別人說這是正確的同時，向你自己內心發出疑問：真的是這樣嗎？

如果你已經是老鳥、前輩，請不要再跟新手說這樣做才是絕對正確的，除非是在做教學（雖然我也不認同教學就要這樣教）。

Everyone goes through stages of not understanding completely, that’s okay.

Everyone goes through stages of having too much information to digest, that’s okay.

No one reaches the summit without going through the stages from the foot of the mountain to the waist and then to the top. As long as you put your heart into it, every experience you go through will become nourishment for the final result.

Go explore every mode of the camera, watch tutorials online, read about related content from every person. The more you see, the clearer it becomes what is relatively correct, and you will know the answer to your question.The time and energy spent in the process are valuable, and you may be pleasantly surprised with unexpected results, then come online to express your thoughts and attract others’ attention…

The last sentence is a joke, please don’t take it seriously.

If you are a beginner who has just started photography, do more research, observation, experimentation, and questioning. Apart from the optical formulas, there is no ‘absolute’ correct thing in photography. When someone says something is correct, question yourself: Is it really?

If you are already an experienced mentor, please do not tell beginners that this is the absolute correct way, unless it is part of a tutorial (although I do not agree with teaching this way either).